01
Day 01
North Carolina → Europe
Depart
Wheels up. The Adriatic is waiting.
Friday
Depart North Carolina on an overnight flight toward Istria.

The Istrian Coast Odyssey
One Adriatic town, learned deeply enough to become familiar.
Ten days in May — Rovinj, the Istrian hills, the open water and one day in Venice.
Prologue
EXT. MOLO DI CALSÀNTA — ROVINJ — 800 AD — DAY
Bells RING.
People scurry toward the sea.
Something has come ashore.
HUSHED WHISPERS. FINGERS POINT.
The camera moves closer.
A MARBLE SARCOPHAGUS.
CUT TO:
Several strapping townsfolk and fishermen strain to drag it.
Nothing happens.
A YOUNG BOY steps forward, taking hold of the ropes attached to two young, scrawny calves.
YOUNG BOY
I can move it.
The gathered crowd LAUGHS.
YOUNG BOY
St. Euphemia told me how.
The boy takes the ropes. The calves pull.
The impossible begins to move.
Together, they drag the marble sarcophagus from the water and begin the climb up the hill.
The crowd stares in disbelief.
YOUNG BOY
(over his shoulder)
She will protect us. She will protect our town.
CUT TO:
EXT. CHURCH OF ST. EUPHEMIA — ROVINJ — 2027 — DAY
At the top of the hill, a great Baroque church rises above the town.
Bells CHIME.
The camera pans below to the harbor.
Fishermen work among their batanas.
Travelers and locals sit along the shore, soaking in the Mediterranean sun, raising glasses to the day.
FADE TO BLACK.
The itinerary
Two travel days. Eight meaningful days on the ground.
01
Day 01
North Carolina → Europe
Wheels up. The Adriatic is waiting.
Friday
Depart North Carolina on an overnight flight toward Istria.
02
Day 02
Arrive Rovinj
Arrive and settle in. Nothing else planned — that is the plan.
Saturday
Arrive, check in and recover from the flight.
First evening
An easy walk through the old town for a first taste of harbor life.
03
Day 03
Rovinj
The town introduces itself the way it actually lives: produce, boats and the water at the end of the day.
Morning
The Rovinj market and the harbor — local produce, cheese, wine, and the boats coming in.
Midday
At the top of the old town, St. Euphemia's church holds the story that opened this journey — and the sarcophagus at its heart.
For the view: climb the bell tower for a panorama across the rooftops, harbor and Adriatic.
Evening
Take to the water aboard a traditional batana as the light goes. ↗
Scene 01
Mist FLOATS on the water.
Rows of wooden batanas quiver at their moorings.
An OLD BOATBUILDER works quietly on one of them.
Saw.
Hammer.
Wood against wood.
A YOUNG GIRL watches.
His weathered hand offers her the tool.
She takes it.
CUT TO:
The harbor.
Batanas SCATTER through the morning light.
Bitinàda song RISES from the water.
FADE TO BLACK.
04
Day 04
Motovun & Grožnjan
Two very different Istrian stories, an hour inland. One is the view. One is the story.
Motovun
Medieval walls opening onto sweeping views across the Istrian landscape, high above the Mirna River valley.
Grožnjan
Stone lanes leading to working artists' studios and galleries in a town brought back to life by the artists who chose to make it home.
Guide
Private guiding with Goran Cvek. ↗
Photo: Isiwal · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons · color adjusted
Scene 02
EXT. GROŽNJAN — HILLTOP ALLEYWAY — MIDDAY
Stone lanes, narrow enough to touch both walls at once.
Faded shutters, thrown open.
Somewhere, unseen, someone is practicing scales on a violin.
A WOMAN walks slowly, trailing a hand along sun-warmed stone.
She stops at an open doorway.
Inside: canvases STACKED against every wall, half-finished.
An OLD PAINTER — paint-stained apron, silver hair pulled back, unbothered by the interruption — doesn't look up from her work.
OLD PAINTER
You can come in. The door doesn't mean anything. Half this town leaves its doors open.
The woman enters.
WOMAN
Is that trust, or no one's worried about what's worth taking?
OLD PAINTER
(a small laugh)
Both. There was a time nothing here was worth taking. Not even the houses.
CUT TO:
INT. PAINTER'S STUDIO — GROŽNJAN — ARCHIVAL — 1950s
Scene depicted entirely desaturated.
Empty windows. Doors hang open on their hinges. Weeds push up through the stone streets.
A town with almost no souls.
OLD PAINTER (V.O.)
After the war, everyone who could leave, left. The houses just... emptied out.
CUT TO:
INT. PAINTER'S STUDIO — GROŽNJAN — PRESENT
The OLD PAINTER finally looks up at the woman.
OLD PAINTER
So they gave the empty houses to us. For almost nothing. Anyone strange enough to want to live inside a town that had already given up on itself.
WOMAN
And you just... came?
OLD PAINTER
We just couldn't watch it disappear.
CUT TO:
CAMERA rises above the rooftops of a town brought back to life.
FADE TO BLACK.
05
Day 05
Out on the water
A morning on the Adriatic with a local fisherman — traditional fishing, the day's first light, and a different way of reading the sea.
On the boat
Head out with a local fisherman and learn the old way of working the Adriatic — setting the line, reading the water, and seeing what the day brings.
Then
For the full-day experience: Take the catch to an island, prepare it together, and sit down for lunch beside the sea.
Prefer a shorter day? Half-day and sunrise options are also available.
Or… May brings cuttlefish to the Adriatic — and a very different way to fish for them, with eging, rod fishing and spearfishing available.
Afternoon
The rest of the day is yours.
Photo: Anchi Joy · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Scene 03
EXT. ROVINJ HARBOR — JUST BEFORE DAWN
Black water. No horizon yet. Sea and sky are one.
A small wooden boat BOBS at the dock.
An OLD FISHERMAN coils a long fishing line at his feet. Hooks, bait and small weights lie ready.
A MAN climbs aboard.
OLD FISHERMAN
You fish?
MAN
Some. Mostly charter boats.
The old fisherman nods.
He picks up the line.
OLD FISHERMAN
Then you know.
He steps into the boat.
CUT TO:
EXT. OPEN WATER — ISTRIAN COAST — DAWN
The boat GLIDES into the growing light.
Rovinj recedes behind them, the bell tower catching the first sun.
The fisherman begins feeding the longline into the water, one section at a time.
He looks at the man.
OLD FISHERMAN
Watch the water.
The man does.
A beat.
The line disappears into the Adriatic.
CUT TO:
EXT. OPEN WATER — LATER
The fisherman and the man retrieve the line together.
A modest catch rests in a crate between them.
A small grill GLOWS in the stern.
The fisherman hands the man a fish and a knife.
The man gets to work.
FADE TO BLACK.
06
Day 06
Rovinj
No plans. Sleep in, wander, follow whatever catches your eye.
Whatever it turns out to be
Shops. Gardens. A long lunch. A walk. Real estate window-shopping. Or nothing at all.
07
Day 07
Poreč & Sveti Nikola
Fourteen centuries of Byzantine glass, then lunch across the water.
Poreč
The old town and the Euphrasian Basilica, where Byzantine mosaics have survived for fourteen centuries.
Sveti Nikola
Cross the water to the private island of Sveti Nikola for lunch at Miramare, where an open-air terrace beside the restored 19th-century Isabella Castle looks across the Adriatic to Poreč. ↗
Scene 04
EXT. POREČ — OLD TOWN — LATE AFTERNOON
Our travelers walk through the ancient streets toward the EUPHRASIAN BASILICA.
The bell tower RISES above the rooftops.
INT. EUPHRASIAN BASILICA — CONTINUOUS
Quiet.
They enter the basilica.
Above them, BYZANTINE MOSAICS shimmer in the dim light.
Tiny pieces of glass and stone, set into plaster by hands fourteen centuries ago.
The camera moves across the mosaic.
One tiny tessera.
Then another. And another.
Thousands of fragments.
CUT TO:
A hand.
Fourteen centuries ago.
A craftsman PRESSES a single piece into wet plaster.
CUT BACK:
The same mosaic.
Still here.
EXT. POREČ — OLD TOWN — LATE AFTERNOON
A man and woman emerge into the square.
Across the water, the island of Sveti Nikola.
A small boat moves toward the quay.
They watch it.
CUT TO BLACK.
08
Day 08
Venice
See Venice from the water, then discover the Venice behind the postcards. One day. Two Venices.
Photo: Didier Descouens · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons · color adjusted
From the water
Arrive at San Basilio by water and let Venice reveal itself from the Grand Canal — Rialto, palazzi and the San Marco waterfront.
Then on foot
Leave the water behind and wander Cannaregio — quieter canals, neighborhood life, artisans, bacari.
Crossing
Rovinj → Venice by catamaran. Confirm the May sailing schedule before booking. ↗
Scene 05
EXT. SAN BASILIO — VAPORETTO — LATE MORNING
The vaporetto PULLS away from the dock.
Jennifer and Bryan stand at the rail.
Venice rises from the water.
Palazzi — once the homes of merchants, aristocrats and artists — line the Grand Canal.
Marble facades catch the light. Arched windows. Faded frescoes. Ornate balconies.
A city built on water, its greatest avenue still its oldest.
The vaporetto glides beneath RIALTO.
For centuries, this was where Venice traded with the world.
The city moves around them — boats, bells, voices, footsteps.
They keep watching.
EXT. CANNAREGIO — LATER
They leave the Grand Canal behind.
The crowds thin.
A narrow calle opens onto a small campo.
Bacari dot the street, selling little plates of cicchetti.
Bryan and Jennifer dip inside.
EXT. CANNAREGIO — MOMENTS LATER
They emerge with small plates and glasses of wine.
They stand at the canal, leaning against the wall, eating as Venetians do.
People pass. A boat GLIDES by.
EXT. CANNAREGIO — CONTINUOUS
Laundry overhead. An open window. A boat tied to a doorway.
A woman CALLS out to someone across the canal.
Jennifer and Bryan continue walking.
EXT. VENICE — LATER
The city opens again.
A glimpse of SAN MARCO across the water.
Domes.
Stone.
Mosaics catching the light.
A thousand years of people arriving here from somewhere else.
CUT TO BLACK.
Photo: Peter K Burian · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons · color adjusted
09
Day 09
Rovinj → home
A slow morning. One more walk. A favorite restaurant — the one you'd return to.
Morning
One more walk through Rovinj, a last table at the restaurant that became yours, then pack up.
10
Day 10
Home
Home by evening, with ten days of stories still to tell.
Sunday
Land, unpack, and let the trip settle.
Photo: Ross Elliott · CC BY 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons · color adjusted
The inside track
The things worth knowing before you're standing there.
Rovinj
The batana is Rovinj's traditional flat-bottomed wooden fishing boat, built for the shallow coastal waters around the town. The boats were traditionally built by hand and closely tied to Rovinj's fishing families and waterfront culture.
The Batana Eco-Museum preserves not only the boats themselves, but the knowledge, songs, food and traditions surrounding them. Listen for bitinada — traditional fishermen's singing in which several voices come together around a song.
The evening batana experience is especially atmospheric, because Rovinj's old town looks completely different from the water.
2027 note: the Batana team expects its 2027 calendar to open around the end of January. Private trips for two are possible, subject to availability.
The hills
These towns are worth experiencing as two very different Istrian stories.
Motovun is the dramatic hill town: medieval walls, steep lanes and broad views over the Mirna valley.
Grožnjan is smaller and more intimate. After the Second World War, much of its population left and the town declined. In the 1960s, artists began moving into its abandoned buildings, eventually turning it into the working artists' colony it is today.
The useful distinction: Motovun is the view. Grožnjan is the story.
Poreč
The Euphrasian Basilica dates largely to the 6th century and is known for its exceptionally preserved Byzantine mosaics.
Look closely. The mosaics are made from thousands of tiny pieces of colored glass and stone — tesserae — set individually into plaster. The effect is easy to miss if you simply stand back and take in the whole image.
Get close. The individual pieces are where the human hand becomes visible.
Venice
From the water: at San Basilio, take the vaporetto in the direction that travels via Piazzale Roma and the Grand Canal, rather than the direct Giudecca route. The ride itself is the introduction — watch for the palazzi, the bridges, Rialto and the waterfront approach to San Marco.
Cannaregio: explore on foot — quieter canals, artisans, neighborhood life, bacari/cicchetti and the historic Jewish Ghetto. Then, Venice → Rovinj.
Cicchetti: for lunch, look for a good bacaro. Cicchetti are small Venetian plates meant to be ordered individually and shared; an ombra is a small glass of wine. Informal, social and easy to combine with wandering.
Getting back: a natural return route runs through San Polo and Santa Croce, across the Ponte dell'Accademia, then along the Zattere toward San Basilio. A traghetto — the local gondola crossing used to cross the Grand Canal — is an optional small experience if one fits naturally into the day.
Your choices
All three are in the old town. Choose the version that feels most like you.
Right on the harbor in the old town: 18 rooms in a building dating to 1913, with contemporary art commissioned specifically for the hotel on every wall, and a bar holding one of Croatia's largest whisky selections.
Why this one
Personal, warmly staffed, and right on the harbor — the easy choice if location and service matter most.
A 17th-century bishop's palace turned 24-room boutique hotel. Antique-strewn, with a stone-paved garden and a sauna tucked into what used to be part of a religious residence.
Why this one
Quietly atmospheric rather than showy — the building does the storytelling
A 16th-century villa built into the town's old fortress walls, with original stone crypts in the basement left exposed and — unusually — its own on-site antique shop where guests can browse real local artifacts.
Why this one
Part museum, part guesthouse — history you can touch, not just look at
Tables worth returning to
A restaurant only becomes yours the second time you walk in.
Puntulina — probably the most atmospheric spot in Rovinj, built into the old-town cliffside with terraced steps down to the sea. Start with a drink on the rocks at sunset, then move up for dinner. ↗
Trattoria Eclectus — near-perfect traveler ratings, small and personal rather than a big harbor-front operation. Italian-Adriatic seafood that rewards walking a little further from the main strip. ↗
Barba Danilo — an adults-only konoba, consistently top-rated, romantic and quiet rather than bustling. A genuine word-of-mouth favorite. ↗
La Mula Ristorante — another consistently top-rated Italian-seafood spot, mentioned in the same breath as Rovinj's best. ↗
Konoba Jure — old-school Istrian cooking rather than seafood specifically: pljukanci, Istrian sausages, local cheese and prosciutto, slow-cooked soups. ↗
Kantinon Tavern — the same Istrian-tavern register, and the other half of a pair recommended to one traveler directly by a local shopkeeper. ↗
Blu — genuinely good value, loved by locals as much as by in-the-know travelers. Adriatic seafood with a contemporary touch, looking straight across at Rovinj's old-town skyline. ↗
Before dates are set
Rovinj · Saturday & Sunday
Saturday: arrival and hotel check-in. No scheduled activities.
Sunday: Rovinj market and harbor, St. Euphemia's church, and the evening batana cruise.
Booking — confirm the 2027 calendar and availability when bookings open. ↗
Motovun & Grožnjan · Monday
Fishing · Tuesday
Two ways onto the Adriatic.
I spoke directly with both captains while researching this journey. Their public listings are included below, along with the specific details they gave me about the May experiences.
Captain Marjan — The Fisherman's Way
I spoke directly with Marjan about creating a private fishing day for the two of you. The experience he described uses a traditional longline fishing method — an old way of working the Adriatic that was once used by local fishing families.
The line is approximately 200 meters long, with a hook about every five meters. It is set in the water for roughly an hour and a half. While it rests, you fish, then return to retrieve the line and see what the day has brought.
The fishing takes place in relatively shallow water, around 30 meters, and Marjan said May is a good period for this style of fishing. Depending on the conditions, the catch can include bluefish, mahi mahi and other species.
He told me he has had as many as 90 fish on a single outing, with a typical catch of 20–40 fish. A recent May 2026 customer review on FishingBooker also describes catching 90 fish during a three-hour trip, giving some real-world context for the kind of fishing available.
For the full-day experience, the fishing becomes the whole day: after retrieving the catch, you'll head to an island, clean and prepare the fish together, then grill and eat it there. Lunch and drinks are included.
Choose your pace
Half day — €380 · 9:00 departure; lunch and drinks not included
Sunrise — €450 · 5:00 departure
Full day — €700 · approximately 8 hours; island stop, lunch and drinks included
Capt. Marjan can arrange the experience as a private excursion.
Contact / booking
Captain Marjan Klaričić
WhatsApp: +385 91 925 7392 — direct contact ↗
FishingBooker: Profishing Rovinj ↗
I first connected with Marjan directly via WhatsApp and discussed the private experience above with him. His FishingBooker listing is another way to reach him and see his current charter offerings.
Captain Matej — The May Cuttlefish Experience
Capt. Matej told me that May is an ideal time for his cuttlefish trips, when cuttlefish come into the area for reproduction.
His approach is very different from Capt. Marjan's traditional longline fishing. His trips use rods and spearfishing, with eging for cuttlefish as the May specialty.
€350 for two people. The price includes permits, fishing equipment and fuel. Food and drinks are not included.
Contact / booking
Booking: Matej was not yet taking 2027 bookings when he replied. He said contacting him approximately one month before the trip would be sufficient.
Captain Matej Škert ↗
I messaged back and forth with Capt. Matej via the FishingBooker site.
Poreč · Thursday
Private transportation and guiding with Goran, the Euphrasian Basilica and Poreč old town.
Boat transfer to Sveti Nikola, lunch at Miramare by Fratelli Cerea, return to Rovinj. Reservation required for both restaurant and boat transfer. ↗
Venice · Friday
Rovinj → Venice by catamaran, arriving and departing San Basilio. Vaporetto along the Grand Canal — Rialto, palazzi and the San Marco waterfront — then into Cannaregio for neighborhood streets, artisans, bacari, cicchetti lunch and the historic Jewish Ghetto, then Venice → Rovinj.
Booking — confirm the May sailing schedule before booking. ↗
Schedule reference: Ferryhopper, Rovinj to Venice. ↗
Coda
FADE TO BLACK.
A beat.
Every place has its own way of measuring time.
In Rovinj, it is measured in boats built by hand, fishermen who still know the old ways, mosaics that have survived for centuries, artists who came here to make something of their own, and stories that have been carried across the Adriatic for generations.
This journey is an invitation to spend some of your own time there — and make a few stories of your own.
A beat.
People don't get to keep their time.
They get to decide what they do with it.
FADE TO BLACK.
The sound of waves LAP against the shore.
TO BE CONTINUED…